Are there really Exosomes in Skincare? Are they Safe? Are they Effective?
Don’t Exosomes de-nature during the formulation process? All these and more answered as we discover how stem-cell derived PTT-6® acts as 'delivery vehicles' to enhance cellular renewal, boost skin elasticity, and promote hair thickening,
Exosomes are the latest buzzword in skincare. These are “tiny, naturally occurring nanoparticles that cells release to communicate and share information with each other”, explains Ong Chee Tian, a skin cell technician at a cell research company. He extrapolates with the delivery vehicle analogy: “If each cell is a city full of buildings, exosomes can be seen as cars carrying messages or packages between them.”
These “delivery vehicles” transport biological messages such as proteins (growth factors and cytokines) and genetic messages to allow cells to communicate with one another. Since exosomes are smaller than other extracellular sacs or vesicles, they can easily pass through the outer skin barrier and be absorbed into the dermis layer. This, according to the paper ‘Exosomes derived stem cells as a modern therapeutic approach for skin rejuvenation and hair regrowth’ published in the Journal of Regenerative Therapy makes it easier for exosomes to be a suitable carrier to deliver substances to skin cells.
Exosomes are not unique to humans or animals — they are found in almost all forms of life, including plants, fungi, bacteria, protozoa, and algae. While their structure may differ from one species to another, their purpose remains the same: to help cells communicate.
What are the Benefits of Exosomes in Skincare?
Since exosomes are readily taken up by cells, those present in skincare products can act as natural microscopic messengers to get skin cells to renew, repair, and function in harmony. “Think of them as catalysts that give your skin’s ecosystem a healthy boost — keeping it balanced and active,” says Mr Ong.
This is supported by a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology titled “Exosomes: Historical Evolution and Roles in Dermatology” which shows that exosomes “may serve as an effective treatment option” for wound healing, acne, psoriasis and vitiligo, among other skin problems.
Studies reveal that they also help with hair growth. The above paper from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology attests that exosomes target follicular niches (dermal, papilla, bulge), to nudge follicles back from the telogen into anagen phase and improve miniaturized follicles. Another review, ‘Exosomes in Dermatology: Emerging Roles in Skin Health and Disease’ in the Pharmaceutics journal reveals that “exosomes housing growth factors and signalling molecules show potential in stimulating hair follicles and promoting hair growth, potentially benefiting individuals with alopecia or other hair disorders”.
Given these valuable findings, it’s not surprising that exosomes are gradually being included in skincare, especially ones that are regenerative or medical grade. Indeed, a paper entitled ‘Revolutionising dermatology: harnessing mesenchymal stem/stromal cells and exosomes in 3D platform for skin regeneration’ discloses that “regenerative dermatology is shifting from whole-cell mesenchymal stem cell therapies to mesenchymal stem cell-derived exosome, which drive healing via paracrine signals”.
But are there really Exosomes in Skincare? Or Scalp Treatments?
Due to the complexity of isolating and preserving real, biologically active exosomes, not all products claiming to contain exosomes actually have them, or if they do, they may not be functional. Also, many skincare brands may have it on their list of ingredients, but what you find in the product are peptides instead, which may be beneficial but do not carry out the same functions as exosomes.
The problem with exosomes is that they can be difficult to formulate. “Even though exosomes naturally serve to protect their biological cargo within their lipid membranes, they remain prone to structural damage if handled improperly or exposed to harsh environments,” explains Mr Ong.
This, however, does not apply to CALECIM®’s products for two reasons. One is the highly pristine source of the cells used. PTT-6®, the key ingredient in CALECIM®’s hair and skincare products, is derived from the mesenchymal stem cells found in the cord lining of red deer from New Zealand. The second advantage, points out Mr Ong, is the company’s “deep understanding of the cord lining stem-cell technology which gives it the ability to control and optimize every step of the PTT-6® manufacturing process to preserve these previous cargos”.
How CALECIM® Maintains the Integrity of PTT-6® Exosomes
Containing exosomes as a biological material, PTT-6® is prone to denaturation, due to exposure to high temperature, extreme pHs, and harsh chemical compounds and physical conditions during formulation processing steps. This being the case, scientists at CALECIM®’s headquarters, CellResearch Corporation, work very closely with their cosmetic formulation partners to ensure stability of PTT-6® throughout the manufacturing process. What’s more, recently, for the first time, CellResearch Corporation’s scientists were able to visually confirm the presence of intact extracellular exosomes using the scanning electron microscopy. “The fact that intact exosomes are still detectable in CALECIM®s Advanced Haircare System demonstrates that our formulation and processing steps effectively preserve exosome integrity,” attests Mr Ong.
Exosomes are usually derived from human, plant or animal stem cells; or synthetic, lab-grown models. While there may not be comparisons available between animal, plant and human-based sources, mammalian-derived exosomes like PTT-6® share a closer structural and molecular structure to human biology. “This makes them inherently more biocompatible and likely to interact more effectively with human skin cells. In contrast, plant-derived exosomes might lack the same lipid and protein compositions that facilitate natural cellular communication in human tissues,” observes Mr Ong.
How Safe are Exosomes? Can they be Cancer-causing?
Concerns have been raised about the safety of exosomes in skincare products. However, these issues typically relate to those produced by diseased or cancerous cells. In the case of CALECIM®’s products, the stem cells are derived from the secretome of Red Deer Umbilical Cord Lining Stem Cells (RDUCLSCs) – these cells are obtained from pristine birth tissues that develop naturally and safely within the mother red deer, explains Mr Ong.
These tissues are ethically collected after birth without causing harm to either the mother or the fawn and would otherwise be regarded as biological waste. As the RDUCLSCs (red deer umbilical cord lining stem cells) originate from a protected, birth-tissue environment, they have not been exposed to environmental stressors or undergone aging-related changes.
Exosomes isolated from such healthy, young cells naturally support skin’s natural regeneration, balance and renewal processes. It is also important to note that cancer develops from accumulated genetic mutations in aged or damaged host cells, not from exposure to exosomes derived from healthy stem cells – hence, this concern does not apply to PTT-6®, stresses Mr Ong.
Clinical studies show some promise for exosomes in skin and hair regeneration. However, given that exosomes are challenging to formulate and store, and can vary widely in terms of safety and efficacy, users should be careful to look for products from reputable brands and not be taken in by exaggerated claims.
