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Growth Factors Are The Next Big Thing In OTC Age Reversal And Dermatologists Explain Why
Calecim's line of potent professional skin and scalp products may be a good place to start.
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For many years, certain cutting-edge skin care has only been accessible in office settings where injections, lasers and other equally hostile-sounding treatments are doled out exclusively by medical professionals, often at gobsmacking prices. Lately, however, more over-the-counter beauty products offer these same ingredients, albeit with less efficacy, but harnessing similar clinical innovation nonetheless.
This all could be said for growth factors, an ingredient that we’re told by board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University, Dr. Hadley King, is used primarily for anti-aging. Often used in conjunction with professional treatments like microneedling, King said, growth factors are signaling proteins that allow cells to communicate with each other.
“When [growth factors] bind to receptors on cell surfaces, they can send commands to repair, rejuvenate and replicate. They are used for anti-aging because they can increase collagen and elastin, thicken skin and improve tone and texture,” King said.
Topical growth factors may even help promote hair growth by stimulating hair follicles and blood supply, she said, though more data may be needed to demonstrate absorption and effectiveness.
According to her, it’s likely that you’re hearing more about growth factors in skin care simply because there’s more research coming out to prove their potential when it comes to anti-aging and skin rejuvenation.
“People are more savvy than ever before about what is happening in their skin, down to the cellular level, and they love emerging ingredients that really speak to the science of age-related changes in the skin,” said double board-certified and Austin, Texas-based dermatologist Dr. Kristina Collins.
Collins said that thanks to new biotechnology, it’s now easier and more affordable to create lab-derived or plant-based growth factors, allowing them to be safely and effectively included in retail skin care products.
We asked both Collins and King about Calecim, a professional-level beauty brand that claims to solely specialize in over-the-counter growth factor products that deliver science-backed results.
“Calecim products stand out for their proprietary PTT-6—a stem-cell-derived mix of growth factors, cytokines, and exosomes—backed by clinical applications,” Collins said.
According to King, this patented blend of proteins, growth factors, and cytokines derived from red deer umbilical cord lining (that the brand claims is ethically sourced) can potentially stimulate skin repair and regeneration.
Collins acknowledged that Calecim’s offerings may exceed many people’s budgets, however, we figure that it may save you more in the long run when compared to what you might pay sitting in an office chair. If you’re curious to learn more, take a look at all of Calecim’s products in the list ahead.
The experts consulted for this story do not necessarily endorse the products ahead unless otherwise noted.
1. A potent stem cell professional serum
The Calecim professional serum promises to deliver a hefty and concentrated dose of its patented growth factor complex that can amplify the skin's natural process for rejuvenation. Containing over 3,000 proteins, including cytokines and exosomes, which are also involved in cell-to-cell communication, the serum claims to use a delivery system that penetrates deeper than other formulas to yield greater results, which in this case, are improved skin texture and skin elasticity, fewer fine lines and an overall complexion that's firmer, regenerated and hydrated. It's intended to be a targeted product applied after in-office treatments like microneedling or chemical peels, however, the Calecim says you can also use it as regular skin care anytime your skin needs a boost.
2. A multi-action face cream that may increase skin density
With this daily cream, you can target multiple signs of aging at once, while also repairing compromised or damaged skin. Its main promise is to treat thin and sagging skin by boosting elastin, a naturally occurring protein that gives skin its taut look and "spring back" that's often lost with age. Like all Calecim's formulas, it contains an advanced growth factor complex, as well as barrier-strengthening linoleic acid and vitamin E, a well-studied antioxidant that can nourish and provide protection against premature skin aging.
3. A lifting cream for targeting aging around the eye
Much like the above-listed face cream targets skin sagging, thinning and volume loss, this targeted eye cream does the same for the delicate skin surrounding your orbital bone and temples, which is actually one of the first areas of the face to show signs of aging. It promises to help boost the health of the skin that's vital for maintaining a more youthful-looking contour surrounding the eye. The growth factor-containing formula is also supplemented with several ingredients that can target other eye-related concerns, like puffiness and dark circles, using well-studied ingredients like brightening niacinamide and caffeine, which increases blood flow to the skin for a more rested look.
4. A solution that helps treat dark spots and hyperpigmentation
If you deal with melasma, dark spots, or other hyperpigmentation issues and irregular skin texture, this skin-softening toner can dramatically improve your complexion, according to the brand and Calecim customers. Growth factors are supplemented with a collection of chemical exfoliants and enzymes like alpha-arbutin and tranexamic acid to work on existing discoloration and prevent new spots from forming. Any abrasiveness or potential irritation that you might normally experience from exfoliating toners is offset with this formula's inclusion of sigesbeckia and green tea extract, two ingredients believed to have protective and anti-inflammatory properties.
5. An overnight complex meant to restore and brighten aging skin
While you sleep, Calecim's Recovery Night Complex is designed to repair skin and help restore some of the key signs of youth, like hydration and volume loss, all in one soothing formula that's meant to be washed off in the morning. Its patented growth factor complex is supplemented with Calmonsensine, an innovative peptide that may be able to function similarly to Botox, in that it inhibits muscle movement to soften the appearance of wrinkles and static lines, while preventing them from forming altogether. (We have some existing reporting on peptides and similar muscle inhibitors in case you're interested). This complex also contains trusted humectants like hyaluronic acid and skin-brighteners like niacinamide.
6. A deeply hydrating and soothing face cream
Those with troubled, crepey and chronically dry skin should consider this comforting and deeply hydrated face cream that promises to increase your skin's own production of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring humectant that draws moisture into the skin, resulting in a plump and dewy complexion. It also features aloe to soothe inflamed skin, antioxidant-rich vitamin E, and, of course, Calecim's patented growth factor formula.
7. An advanced hair growth system
Unlike the rest of the Calecim lineup, this product is part of the brand's advanced hair system, meant to stimulate hair growth, reduce shedding and improve hair density, all in just six weeks and in the comfort of your home. Part of the system involves a stamper tool, which preps the scalp to ensure the greatest absorption possible. Per Calecim's protocol guidance, it's important to properly sterilize the tool before and after use to avoid contamination, and it's a good idea to consult your medical professional prior to using.
